A Guide to Schwinn Traveler Bicycles (1950s-60s)

 

Introduction

Schwinn used the "Traveler" name on several kinds of bikes over the years. There are two basic bikes known as "Travelers". The first is the American-made (Schwinn Chicago factory) single, two-speed, or three-speed touring/commuting bike made from the early 1950s to the mid-1960s. The second "Traveler" is a Japanese-made road bike of the 1970s-80s. This field guide is about the earlier, "Traveler".

 The Schwinn Traveler three speed was Schwinn's luxury "lightweight" or "English style" bike made in the USA. The Traveler's fenders were initially chrome, but later stainless steel. They feature a "fin" on the front fender. The Traveler generally came with more equipment than the lesser models: saddle bag, lighting set, and a better saddle. The Traveler also made use of Schwinn's proprietary built-in kickstand, whereas some lesser models did not have a built-in kickstand. 

 

How To Tell if You Have a Traveler?

Look at the chain guard and the frame for decals. Often (but not always) the chain guard will actually say "Traveler". Also, look at the features to see if it matches one of the generations of Traveler bikes described below. 

 

 

How to ascertain a date? 

Schwinn Traveler serial numbers usually appear on the non-drive side dropout (1952-66). A serial number chart is available online HERE. Some very early Travelers (1951-52) have the serial number on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell. This number tells you when the bottom bracket or dropout was stamped. It is not the actual "build date" for the bike, but is close enough for collectors today.

On three speed Travelers, Sturmey Archer made most of the rear hubs. Sturmey Archer's date code will include a two-digit year and a two-digit month. The hubs were produced a few weeks to months before the bike was completed, but it will give you a rough idea of when the bike was made (if it's the original hub to the bike). Sometimes a Traveler will have a front "Dynohub", a hub that powers the lighting system. Dynohubs also will have a two-digit year and two-digit month code on the shell. Some Travelers have Austrian-made or Brampton-made hubs without date codes. In those cases, use the decals (see below) on the bike to try to ascertain a date. Austrian-made hubs can be found on late 1950s Travelers and Brampton hubs are on some early and mid 1950s Travelers.

 For single and two-speed Travelers, look to the frame serial number and features (see below) to ascertain the date of the bike.

Identifying Four Generations of Travelers

 

Generation 1: 1951 through 1956

These bikes have ornate, winged decals on the frame. They have "hockey stick" chain guards. Frames are made of welded steel. Initially the fenders were made of chromed steel, but after only a couple of years, the fenders changed to stainless steel construction (1955). Rims are S6 "endrick" or "box pattern" rims. 

 

The earliest generation 1 Travelers have "Schwinn Built" steel brake calipers and brake levers. Subsequently, Phillips (English) steel calipers and levers were used. Schwinn then switched to Weinmann aluminum alloy model 810 calipers and all-grey aluminum levers.  

Phillips "swivel" brake levers - courtesy of the CABE

 

Weinmann grey levers

Front forks are made of tubular steel and have an ornate design on them. 

Early generation 1 three-speed Travelers have clamp-on cable pulleys, whereas later ones have a braze-on boss for the Sturmey Archer gear cable pulley. 

Early Generation 1 Travelers have a round headbadge that says "New World" on it. Later ones have a brass "Schwinn" logo headbadge with wings at the flanks. The earliest bikes in this generation may have serial number on the bottom bracket.

Front of a Gen 1 Travel, courtesy of BikeForums

In 1952 and later, the number should appear on the non-drive side rear dropout. 

Some three-speed Travelers in this generation may have Brampton-made rear hubs without date codes.

 

 

 

Generation 2: 1956 through 1959

1957 Schwinn Traveler - a Generation 2 bike

At some point in early 1956, the Traveler changed to a plainer design. These second generation bikes have simpler decals than generation 1. They have a simple, script "Schwinn" logo on much of the frame. The seat tube has a more ornate decal than the rest of the frame.  The front forks are tubular steel and have a simpler, diamond outline type shape. 

Schwinn logo on downtube - Generation 2

Brakes are Weinmann 810 alloy calipers with "Schwinn Approved" in block lettering on them. Brake levers are Weinmann red dot types. 

Block letter Schwinn Approved Weinmann 810 Calipers

 

Diamond outline fork pattern, Weinmann red dot levers

 

Headbadges are aluminum "Schwinn" logo type with wings at the flanks. 

It appears, based on surviving examples, as if this is the least commonly-found generation of Travelers today. Bicycles from generations 1 and 3 are more commonly seen today. Production of this generation of Travelers may have been lower than other generations.

 

Generation 3: 1959 through 1962

At some point in early 1959, Schwinn again changed the Traveler. This time, the bike went to a more ornate look.

 

These bikes have ornate frame decals in a marked change from generation 2.  

Example of Generation 3 Ornate Graphics

Bikes from 1959 to early 1960 have an aluminum headbadge "Schwinn" logo type with wings at the flanks. Lettering is colored like the frame. Generation 3 bikes from 1960 through 62 have an ornate, faceted badge made of plastic and in a silver color. The plastic badge version is fragile and glued into place with a locating pin. Faceted "starburst" badges from 1960-61 have outlining around the "Schwinn" logo. Badges of 1961-62 have more black on the lettering.

1959 - winged oval badge

 

Faceted plastic badge - used 1960-63 - Courtesy of Autofrei

 

L: 1960-61 badge (outlined letters); R: 1961-63. Courtesy of Rennfaron/CABE

Some of these bikes have Austrian-made, three-speed rear hubs without date codes. Chainguards are still hockeystick type. Some of these bikes also have an oval-shaped, Austrian-made three speed shifter instead of the usual Sturmey Archer "flick" shifter.

Generation 3 (1959) Traveler undergoing rebuild

Rims change at some point in 1959 from S6 chromed steel endrick/box type to S5 Schwinn "ridged" (English-style). Both rim types take a 597mm bead seat (EA1) tire.

The front fork changes in 1959 from the previous tubular design to the flat "ashtabula" fork style so familiar to Schwinn collectors.

Brake calipers are aluminum Weinmann 810s with "Schwinn Approved" in script on them. Levers are Weinmann "red dot" types. 

Schwinn Approved "Script" Brake Calipers

Red Dot Weinmann brake levers

 

Generation 4: 1963 through 1966 

Generation 4 - 1964 Traveler

These bikes return to a simpler style of decal and graphics. The decals are tidy and generally plain, but do have a little style to them. The seat tube has a nice, ivory-colored decal with a black and red Schwinn logo.

 

Chainguards change from the hockeystick type to the longer type that goes back to the seat stays. Chainguards eventually switch to a plain "star" graphic. 

The 1963 models have the plastic, faceted headbadge. The 1964-66 models have a plainer oval, metal "Schwinn" logo headbadge without wings. 

1963 - ornate oval "starburst" badge - Courtesy of the CABE

 

1964 - metal oval badge

Fenders are still stainless steel with a fin on the front fender. 

Brakes are Weinman 810 calipers with "Schwinn Approved" in script lettering. Levers are Weinmann 810 "red dot" types.

Rims are Schwinn S5 "ridged" of chromed steel. Spoke in generation 4 are initially Torrington-made, double-butted, but switch to straight-gauge Union-made spokes partway through generation 4. 

Ivory seat tube decal - 1964

 

Conclusion

This guide is not meant to cover every possible variation of Schwinn Traveler. It instead is meant to provide a basic "field guide" for when you happen to come across one of this fine bikes "in the wild". These bicycles are often forgotten today, lost between the glamour of the Schwinn balloon tire bikes and the later Schwinn 10-speed road bikes. Despite this status, the Traveler was a premium, well-made three speed bike meant to help older students and adults travel and tour in speed and comfort.

Vintage Bicycle Rebuild "Styles"

After rebuilding a couple of old bikes, I think each person develops a certain "style" to how they rebuild bikes. Some people prefer to modify bikes, some restore with correct or period parts, and some do only light preservation. Some people mix all three methods. Some people have a style that changes over time, based on the circumstances of each bike. 

If I had to describe my preferred style today, it would be a mixture of "practical", "correct" and "time period". The idea is to maintain the history of the bike while also making is useful in the way it was originally intended to be used. My bikes are usually comfortable, practical machines as was originally intended by the manufacturer when they were made many years ago. 

"Use original parts when possible, but if need be, replace them. The best replacement is a direct original. Second choice would be a period correct part. Third choice would be a new part that is similar to the original. Last resort is a new part that is quite different from the original."

I preserve original parts wherever possible and consistent with the safety and use of the bike. Even if an original part is worn, it should be used when doing so is still consistent with safety and function. Is there a compelling reason to remove an original part? If not, try to keep using it. Sometimes there is a safety or function reason to swap a part, but try to use originals when you can.

A direct, correct part is the best replacement when you have to replace an original. Sometimes this is possible and sometimes not. Go with a correct/direct replacement if you can.

If you can't get a correct/direct replacement, try a "period correct" part, a replacement part from the same time period. 

If a period correct part is also not available, try a newer part that matches the technology and style of the bike. For example, a new Brooks B66 saddle on a three speed bike is perfectly acceptable if the original B66 is dried or broken. Parts made of leather or rubber often degrade over time. Or for example, use a new slotted screw to replace an old slotted screw that has stripped or broken. Using a hex headed screw on a 1940 Schwinn or Raleigh would look out of place, but a new slotted screw is closer. 

 

 

"A vintage bicycle should be reasonably safe and useful. It was intended to be ridden and your project should function consistent with that intent. Don't be afraid to replace consumable parts that affect safety and ride."

I replace consumable parts that have an effect on ride and safety. I replace rubber brake blocks/pads, worn brake cables, worn/damaged cable housings, worn shifter cables, worn tires/tubes, damaged handlebar grips, etc. It's not useful to have original brake blocks that squeal and won't stop the bike, or cables that are original but snap when you need to stop quickly, or tires that frequently flat because the sidewalls blow. I suppose this would not apply to "display only" bikes in museums and the like. But for my purposes, the bike needs to work and be reasonably safe. New parts should be similar in appearance and function to the old ones, where possible.

 

"Remove grime, dirt, and rust wherever possible. Do not remove good, old paint - even if it is faded. Gently clean the old paint and decals."

 I remove rust and clean off dirt/grime. Rust is simply a chemical reaction that corrodes ferrous metals such as iron and steel. The science is fairly straightforward. Rust should not be called "patina", which is often what a salesman will try to call it ["patina" originally referred to the green-ish oxidation of copper or bronze metals, something different]. I remove rust to the extent I can do so because it is a degradation of metal and should be cleaned up. I match and patch-up paint to prevent rust from returning. I treat bare metal or damaged chrome with WD-40 and similar products to help stave off rust. 

I clean up and lightly polish old paint. Faded paint helps give the old bike its character. I gently clean and polish it, but I do not remove it or try to make it look brand new. I gently clean up old decals and leave them in place whenever possible.

"Check all mechanical parts for damage or wear. Replace broken parts, bad bearings, bad races etc. Everything should work smoothly and as-intended by the manufacturer."

The bike should work properly. Wheels should turn smoothly and run true. Steering should be smooth, reliable, and precise. Brakes should feel crisp and grab reliably (within the limitations of their engineering). A bike that looks nice may not function well if you don't clean and check all the mechanical items. 

"Add accessories that make the bike safe. Observe safety laws. Try to use accessories that capture the look of the bike but which also add an element of safety."

If you need add-on LED lights or a bag with a reflector on it to be safe interacting with traffic, do it. I like retro lights that look correct from the outside, but which contain modern LEDs inside to aid visibility. I also like LED conversions for period lights, such as LED lights for Dynohub lamps.

 

 

 

 

 

Threading and Trimming a Bike Fork - 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World

Cutting Threads on a New World Steerer Tube

 

Late in 2024, I bought a 1941 Schwinn Henderson New World bicycle project from a bike shop in Pennsylvania. This bike was relatively complete, but the fork had been swapped for a later, post-war fork that was spray painted black. Given how unusual the "Henderson" New World variant is, I thought it would be nice to have a correct fork for this bike. 

 

1941 Schwinn Henderson New World with Incorrect Fork

The correct fork is the Schwinn-made "D" profile fork. This fork has tapered arms with a "D" shaped cross-section. This style of fork would be correct for a tourist New World from 1941 and earlier. I located a fork from a donor frame. The fork was in good shape, but the steerer tube was too long and not threaded low enough to fit this men's 21-inch frame.

The fork material is a pretty basic, soft steel. The steerer can be threaded and trimmed to a size that will fit the fork.

The first step is to have the correct tool for the job. I'm using the Hozan #426 die and handle. The correct size is 1-inch diameter by 24 threads per inch.  The die has an adjuster screw that helps set the correct depth of cut. The screw is adjust until the die fits snugly around the existing threads, but does not substantially cut those threads much deeper. The goal is to match the threads as closely as possible.

The die is mounted into the handle and is threaded onto the existing threads, turning clockwise until it reaches the end of the threads. 

 Oil is liberally applied to the cutter. Cuts are made by turning the die 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn (depending on how much resistance you meet) and then backing off (counter-clockwise) the die. You'll feel and perhaps hear the die cutting and then releasing the broken metal chips. You need to back off the die after each incremental cut in order to free the metal chips from your cutting.

The die is frequently brushed clean with an old tooth brush and re-oiled. Work slowly and carefully.

 

Notice the Oily Chips - Cut and Back Off. Also Notice Black Line.

 Every so often, the die is removed and the fork test fitted in the frame until I get the threads in the correct location all the headset parts to grab. Once that is done, the die and threads are cleaned with an old toothbrush.

Cut Threads, Down to the Mark After Test Fitting.

 

Now that the threads are cut, the fork needs to be trimmed. Again, the fork is tested fitted to the frame and I mount the headset parts. And measure the excess. In this case, I need to account for the threaded top cup (the knurled, round piece), the lock ring (the thin ring with the tooth on it), and the lock nut (the six-sided large nut on the very top). I compare what I need in terms of length to what I have. Measure twice, cut once. [In some cases, you will need to use a rectangular small file to extend the groove that the lock nut's tooth sits in. Do that before measuring if you have to do so.]

After I'm a sure of my measurement, I thread the fork into a cutting jig and cut it off with a hacksaw. 

An Old School Tube Cutter with Internal Threads 

 

After cutting, I clean all metal dust and chips from the fork and the steerer tube. I then take a Dremel tool with a fine emery drum and gently remove the cutting burr from the inside of the steerer tube. 

Once that is done, everything is test fitted again. Sometimes I don't cut enough off the first time and I need to make a second cut. If that is the case, the cutting and cleaning steps outlined above are repeated. It's better to have to make two cuts than to cut too much off...

Everything is then cleaned, greased, and assembled.

When I'm done, I have a handsome and correct fork for this New World frame, ready for polish and matching touch-up paint.